Globalization One Bus Trip At A Time

March 22, 2008 Author: Beth Salerno

Arched Bridge at South Sorak MountainWhen I imagined life in Korea, I never imagined a Saint Patrick’s Day Parade with  6,000 people, green rice cakes, Irish bands, step dancing, and Guinness on tap.  I missed out on attending the parade this past weekend, but just knowing it happened gave me a very different sense of Korea!

Foreigners make up 2% of Korea’s population, doubling in number since last year.  Chinese, Southeast Asians and South Asians made up the largest groups, with majorities in unskilled and agricultural labor.  The next biggest group is Americans, with about 30,000 U.S. soldiers and 30,000 U.S. citizens in non-military roles.   While English speaking “expats” (expatriates, or people living outside their country) make up far less than 1% of the population in Korea, they dominate my weekends three or four days a month.  This is due to my travel through the Royal Asiatic Society - Korea Branch (RAS-KB) which organizes English-language trips all over Korea.  The pictures in this blog are from my latest trip to the Inner and South Sorak Mountain areas.  You can see two dozen more by clicking on any of the images and checking out the ”set” they belong to on Flickr.  (The slide show is worth it!). 

Here is a brief list of the types of people I have met on recent trips:Path along the edge of the mountainA woman from Germany who works in an agricultural NGO in North Korea; a protocol officer at the German embassy; the Ambassador from Colombia and his wife; a tour guide from Yemen;  a reporter from Japan learning Korean; an insurance claims adjuster from Australia on his fourth one year tour in Korea; a couple from England teaching elementary school English; a U.S. army captain;  a New Zealander dealing with divorce by teaching English in rural Korea; an adjunct professor of English literature teaching seven year olds English; a Thai woman currently living in Korea after two decades in Singapore, and her mom; an American twenty something giving private English lessons until George Bush leaves office. There are many, many more - each person has a story.  But there are three things about white, western “expats” (the people here most like me) that I find particularly fascinating.

First, the vast majority of them are “migrant labor” (although here in Korea that term always implies a non-white person).  Whether from the U.K., New Zealand, Australia, Canada or the U.S.A., people come to Korea to make money that they can take back home.  Huge numbers come to teach English, since until this year Korea did not require any credentials other than native-speaking ability.  The adjunct professor of English mentioned above had taught in America for three years and could not make enough money to cover her rent.  Here she teaches 6 hours a day to elementary and middle school students, makes 3 times her previous salary, and has sent her first novel off to a publisher.  Many young people are paying off their student loans; a few couples are paying down their mortgages.  There is a whole economic world here I never imagined when I finished college! 

Snow capped mountainsSecond, the Korean language level of most expats is pretty terrible.  I was amazed to discover my seriously limited Korean is better than 80% of the people I have traveled with, despite their sometimes far longer residence.  I had not realized how much of a gift living outside Seoul can be.  In Seoul, a foreigner can find just about everything in English and can live within a foreign enclave that requires little interaction with Koreans.  When you spend all day teaching English and all night with English teachers, when would you speak Korean?

Third, every expat knows a different Korea.  One U.S. army soldier is an unwilling expert on the drug and prostitution culture of northern South Korea due to his required policing of his platoon’s weekend activities.  English teachers who have seriously dated Koreans have learned family hierarchies, dating customs, and the perils of cross-cultural communication.  I’ve met a few scholars of ancient Korea and many students of modern Korean bar culture.  Once again living outside Seoul makes a huge difference - those within Seoul often seem completely unaware of basic customs I have come to take for granted, while those from rural areas tell me customs I thought outdated are still alive near them.

Footbridge to the TempleI did not expect to travel the world while living in Korea.  But long bus rides have turned into explorations of Colombian cities, tours of South Africa’s coasts, descriptions of Pyeongyang now and 10 years ago, comparisons of Thailand, Vietnam and Cambodia, and introductions to Japanese culture.   I’ve heard about little gardens in Berlin, and seen pictures of sand-scrubbed cities in Yemen.

Globalization has taken on new meaning for me here.  We ignore the world to our political peril in the United States.  But we also ignore it to our cultural peril.  What a different person I might have been if I’d known that one could bounce from country to country, teaching English, learning about the best of each culture and bringing back such richness to inform my life.  What a different country we would be if many of our citizens did that, or if we openly welcomed other citizens to bring what they have to us.

Entry Filed under: Outdoors, Culture

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